Why Choosing a Haircut Based on Face Shape is Overrated: Barber Shares Expert Insights

So here’s the thing…

At one point or another, you may have encountered advice saying that you're either an oval, square, heart, diamond, or round face and that you NEED to choose the right haircut to enhance all the right features.

If you don’t, then you’re just shining a spotlight on how unflattering your face really is. That’s what the advice is saying, not me, I think your face is lovely.

But I saw this advice 10 years ago and I'm still seeing it being pushed out today by people who want easy likes and shares for "quick tips" and, as a professional barber, I am EXHAUSTED by it!

For example, we have a GQ article that was published not that long ago that goes over the same advice I've been hearing over and over again.

Let me summarize these points [1]:

Square- AVOID long back and sides. You can have short or long hair on top.

Round- AVOID super short haircuts like buzzes and crops. You want haircuts with more volume like side parts and taper.

Oval- AVOID covering your forehead. You want medium to long hair, or short haircuts that are softer.

Triangle- The GQ article describes this as a prominent jaw and narrow forehead. You want to add volume to the hair on top for balance.

Oblong- AVOID short on sides and long on top. You want to build volume on the sides with a scissor cut.

Diamond- AVOID angular sharp lines. You want softer textures and probably a scissor cut.

Is this bad advice?

No. Not necessarily. These tips are a bit vague, but are easy to follow and can be helpful enough for some. So why am I so against choosing a hairstyle based on face shape?

Because it's not as important as what people may think!

If you take a look at the GQ article and look at the example images provided, you may start having the same thoughts that I did: "These face shapes kind of look... the same? Okay so that one is obviously round, but shouldn't that one be rectangular? Are they all rectangular??"

This leads me to my first point.

Face Shapes Aren't Clearly Defined

Next time you're in public, take a look around and try to label each face shape you see. Are you having trouble with categorizing them? There may be a few that really stand out to you, but for the most part, you can see a face as fitting into 2 or even 3 face shape categories depending on the angle you’re looking at.

You might not even be able to categorize your own face! There just aren't any definitive guidelines and nobody is busting out calipers to take measurements of your forehead, cheekbones, and chin to double-check if you're an oval instead of a diamond.

Hair Type and Texture Matter More

Professional stylist and Youtuber, Andrewdoeshair, actually made a great video on cutting hair for face shapes and one of his main points was that your hair type is a bigger determinant of your haircut than your face shape [2].

Even if you follow the guidelines of the GQ article, you may find that your hair texture just won't let you style it the way you're "supposed to". Some people just can't achieve a slick back, some people just can't have a "soft texture", and others may struggle to get any bit of volume.

You don't determine a forest from the shape of the terrain, but by the type of trees that grow in that environment. The same goes for your hairstyles, as hair types are going to limit you way more than face shapes in choosing the right hairstyle.

Another, Equally as Limiting, Factor...

What kind of job do you do? Do you play any sports? How busy are you in the mornings?

When I consult with my clients, these are big concerns that come up for them as they want a haircut that won’t get in the way of more important things, like actually living their lives!

Instead of worrying about a face shape that you can't change all that much, you'll want to consider your LIFESTYLE when choosing a new haircut. Your lifestyle evolves and needs to be accounted for, and your hairstyle has the ability to change as well to accommodate where life takes you.

You may find that a short haircut is low maintenance enough to style before hitting the tennis court with your buddies. Or maybe having a ton of volume on your head just doesn't exude the proper and professional vibe that you're going for when meeting your clients.

Your lifestyle includes all the important things that you prioritize. Having a haircut that matches that lifestyle and fits your personality is a great way to show up fully to those priorities.

Despite all of this, you might still be holding on firmly to having a haircut that matches your face shape.

You don't want something that's going to look off and weird! And as a barber, I wouldn't want that either and that leads me to my final point.

You don't have to worry about face shape, your barber does.

When it comes to choosing a hairstyle, the factor you should worry about most is your own lifestyle and preferences. There's no point in me telling you that long hair will suit you best if you just can't stand having to tame all that mane. Every. Frickin. day.

When you finally decide on a hairstyle that you like, it will then become the job of your barber to assess your face and (more importantly) your head shape to ADAPT the hairstyle to work WITH your head.

There may be changes that need to be made to account for bumps and protrusions on your head that you wouldn't see on the regular when checking yourself out in the mirror.

The main point here is to let your barber take care of all of that! They are the professionals after all and will work their magic to make sure that you leave looking like you were meant to have that particular hairstyle all along.

Get The Hair You Want!

At the end of the day, the right haircut will be something that doesn’t just suit you visually but also works with how you want to present yourself in everything you do. So don’t let something as unreliable as face shapes keep you from achieving your dream hair. There’s more to you than just a pretty face!